Seam Finishes. The zig-zag cut edge helps to prevent the fabric from fraying. Different Types of Seam Finishes and Their Uses. I will highlight the most commonly used basic seams used today, and when you should use them. Zig-Zag. FRENCH SEAM. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … For each side of the seam allowance, turn under  0.5cm or 1/4″ or less and press. WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. 4.Hairline seam. HOW: **Megan recently did a detailed tutorial on french seams. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. 3. You can either zig-zag both sides of the seam allowance and press the seam open, or you can zig-zag the two sides together, and press to one side. Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. Also – this one is seen from the outside of the garment and leaves a nice topstitched decorative finish. So, depending on the garment, fabric and the resources you have available to which seam finish you end up using. �]O��H�K� � �g�VN��>�|ɂbncoj诣�g�au�Ī*�Z�Ұ�3���X�}������Iv�A]�Υ��Io�E�ƝMqڷ��uP1��'��~�U�!�`�ΰ'���O��Yn"�_W?ҵ5h�.�6i�F1�;�+��t��'-u�y~��5B�(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(�-��e�(�r���=q3����9�$� ��MݕŜ�9�d#ۃWlu`�}��/�[v�'���}��i�Q���s���ţjkr���+��=�:�?�%Դu���D�>V^q�MҴ�`�&��^Wr��A�k���3�z�+S\]-a��5b�T:u���m���!��FG�i���z��*[�� v&?�L�u�t��֤]"�� �����rz��#ii��?CM�}GMpRIbǿ��^%K�[=I/���5CŚv8��]���/�Ms4QEQEQEQEQEQEQEQE �r85�k��E�uK�� ��R��nd��?�Ͳ��.� ܑ�H{|�kþ!��f�t[x� �f�[�Z���&In# trim seam allowance to .25cm or 1/8″ and press. Finishing off your seams is probably one of the most important parts of the sewing process. With the other side, fold it inward in half  – the raw edge should meet the seam. With a serger. By finishing your edges in a way to prevent fraying and looking unprofessional while preventing your garment from falling apart throughout the laundering process as well as general day to day wear and tear. It is also called a single needle Butterfly ... 2. Pinked Seam. By simply cutting close to the edge with your pinking shears and pressing your seam. HOW: This is a really simple finish. WHEN TO USE IT: It is generally used on heavyweight fabrics such as jeans and on seams where extra strength is needed. A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam might be visible. Double-stitched seam. Turn your fabric so the RIGHT sides are now together, encasing your previous trimmed seam and press. Flat Felled Seam. It is a good idea to test it on a piece of scrap fabric first – try a smaller stitch length for lighter fabrics, and a longer stitch for heavier fabrics. If there is a seam that you are having problems with or have heard of and need more clarification on it, please comment below, I am here to help. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. Seam class-5: Decorative seam. Fold this over top of the trimmed side of the seam, so that it completely covers it. WHEN TO USE IT: Many, many different fabrics and garments. ]�hm���欯�4�¾��lS��ʙ��I��{Q��4ۃ�mn��"��EQEQEQEQEQEQEQEm��t��ͻ� ��4��24n�YN56�t�W�N��y��k�i�uo͵�܄ �+.��W����p��G�����)yi�j7)Q���ȧ�Z��]���� HOW: This is not as difficult as it may sound – see below. French Seam. So if it is a garment or fabric that can get away with this then, why not use it? � p�5>Ցc�w�]UQX:�1��t�O+G�V�'?A\]�u���rj(��(�u��l������Ո�X�T��V��˙�ٱ}Z���ki�&�z�O��F\�0E[�Y����A�z�|��s#�~5QEQEQEQEQEWq�.�#q =M2�X���Xnc$� 85B� ¶��. Very, very versatile, and I use it on everything unless a finish is not required (such as in a flat felled seam, french seam). Therefore the raw edge of seams are finished by different methods like double stitching over cast stitching, herring bone stitch, hem stitching, zig-zag stitch and bound finish. You can, of course then add another seam for strength and/or decorative purposes, to look like the sample picture above. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. With the right sides together, sew 1.5cm or 5/8″ from the raw edge. Use any one of the following to finish of your seam, to prevent your fabric from fraying. In a Plain seam, two fabrics are joined together along the seam line by a line of stitching. Seam class-1: Super imposed seam. HOW: By using the zig-zag setting on your machine. ?�i?�r�6ɑ��A��NUO��]r�s����և�t������Q���j+��ZVX̟+;mZ��G� Z����~�5R��ג/�j�ke�y���g��,����Y$�����=��qܖx C�I��j��WPMug��{��Z�(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)�H�H�*�r���Mr�����K����z��e*�XGPkWI���m:��=���� �r�P�>� Seam class-6: Edge neatening. How to decide which seam is suitable for your sewing. HOW:  By starting with WRONG sides together (yes this is done in reverse) and sewing a very narrow seam of .5cm or 1/4″  from the raw edge before turning through and enclosing it with your finished seam by stitching “1cm or 3/8” from the folded edge (previous seam). When I first started out sewing my own clothes, I commonly used a zig-zag as I did not have an overlocker/serger, but it was my next purchase and I have never been without one as it is my preferred seam finish for pretty much ALL of my sewing requirements. Seam Finishes Page2 Clean-Finished Seams EquipmentNeeded: conventionalsewingmachine SuitableFabrics: verylight-tomedium-weight fabrics—sheers,voiles,silksandanyfabricwherea doublelayerwon’taddbulktotheseamline Thisisabeautifulfinish,especiallyonfinefabrics,that requiresnospecialequipment.It’ssuitableforthe insideofanunlinedjacketaswellasmostanygarment Then, press the seam open and trim ONE side of the seam allowance back to .5cm or 1/4″. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. Learning to Sew for Beginners – Where to Start? WHEN TO USE IT: Stable fabrics (fabrics that don not fray easily). Take a look at your jeans, boardshorts and/or shirts – you will find that they have flat-felled seams! Nothing too difficult here! 1.Plain seam. There are two types of overlock seams – 3 thread and 4 thread. WHEN TO USE IT: Any type of fabric, average to heavyweight is preferred as sheer and really delicate fabrics may shred. Seam class-3: Bound seam. Plain seam with double top stitch. How you finish your seams will decide on how long your garment will last as well as making the inside not lust look neat and tidy but can give it a finish that will last. ��f�I�|���i�QEQEQEQEQEQEW_�9�.m�B7 Seam class-2: Lapped seam. I do like the professional look of the overlocked finish to my seams, and I also like to keep my friends guessing as to whether or not I made it or if it were shop-bought. WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. In time these will come naturally when making garments in the future. Plain seam with a single stitch. (you are turning under the raw edge of the seam allowance). Stitched Plain Seam. )���WP�{+�m�`�c�;f��0��Ɖ��Y1����6�؏�u5ī #tQ\����䳚�?�K���� M ����Ҹ�j'Q���(�D�U+[���o��k^ Remembering that depending on which one you use will dictate the overall look and durability of your finished garment. But as you can see the seam has yet to be finished. You will find that the only time you do not need a seam finish is when and Item is fully enclosed such as a lined garment where the seam is not exposed or seen. You’ll need an overlocker/serger machine to do this. Ev�&�u/A}&0 �w�"��� �������۫)�X��U�ߧ��ttV6�s�m���W���Ե�Q��>�]��oSLх�8V�v*��޼��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)Te���:����HU��22�"��Γ���]i�_��=�Z�#��r��|�d�? Follow the instructions for your machine to thread it properly, and go!. You can either zig-zag both sides of the seam allowance and press the seam open, or you can zig-zag the two sides together, and press to one side (as with an overlocker/serger). Binding (clean finish - usually 301) Binding (coverstitch - 602 or 605 ) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Deco Stitching Elastic attaching - 3 or 4 needle 401 stitch Elastic attaching - 406 or 407 stitch - underwear Facing to front with Zipper Felling (Mock Felled Seam) This is the easiest, fastest and most professional method for sealing the raw edges … You can either serge both sides of your seam allowance and press open, or serge them together and press to the side. Seam class-4: Flat seam. Something that may not be washed or worn a lot is best. With right sides together, sew your seam and trim edges with pinking shears. As you can see, these are pretty straight forward and can be used by anyone of any level of sewing ability. So I’m going to keep this short and sweet. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. There are many different types of seam finishes you can choose from to give your seam a tidy finish. Seams have raw edges which tend to ravel out. �H ��q�5V�ye���kHG���EUп��� �]VF�u��O-U4;#}�A \�����?ݬp����a�����(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)P�Bj�d�b$b�QYI�J�5��5o5G�*��~��5�aZ�,'�T/�bA�U}� ��������iZF�5��+M3Hǖ5��/N[['��v���=��mr���M��;W�*�QEQEQEQEQEQEQEQEQEl��e����yL}ֱ��Ha�$^ Sew 1cm or 3/8″ away from the folded edge and press again. A french seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam might be visible. HOW: You will need a pair of pinking shears to get started. First, you will need to create a plain seam by placing two pieces of material, right sides together, and stitching on the wrong side of the fabric, at the required seam allowance, usually 1.5cm or 5/8″, then open and press flat with an iron. With WRONG sides together, sew .5cm or 1/4” from the raw edge.

types of seams and seam finishes pdf

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